The Napa Valley and Tuscan regions are flooded with tourism during the harvest season. We’ve mapped out an adventure in a lesser-known area in what we believe is a hidden gem. Winemakers in Northern Spain are producing strikingly delicious wines without the mass influx of tourism, thus easily maintaining its beauty, tradition, and culture.

You know that feeling you get when you experience a new restaurant during it’s opening weeks and immediately know it’s going to be a hit? That’s how this feels. When discussing regions to target for wine, people quickly point out world-renowned places like Tuscany, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, and Napa Valley. Spain certainly deserves to be in these conversations.

Our week-long 1,500km loop takes us from Barcelona to Valladolid and back while enjoying fantastic food and wine along the way. If you’re able to travel and enjoy this experience with amazing people, as we did with our friends, Nico and Irene, it will make it that much more special.

Day 1

Barcelona to La Rioja

It all starts in Barcelona! We are instantly at a bit of an advantage on this adventure because one of our traveling mates, Irene, was born and raised in Barcelona. Not only are we instantly able to communicate with everyone now through her, but there was an extra special component… her mother!

I could think of no better way to start this trip than by meeting at Irene’s mother’s home for a traditional Catalanian lunch. While she is not able to speak English, and we are not able to speak Spanish, you somehow find a way to communicate with love, smiles, and over a home-cooked meal! Out of respect for her and the incredibly sweet invitation, I kept the camera holstered. This lunch and the time we shared was beautiful. If you ever receive an invitation from a loving Catalanian grandmother for a freshly prepared meal, cancel whatever you have planned and accept the invite. We absolutely adore her!

Following lunch and hugs with mom, we hopped in the SUV and hit the road, making our way to La Rioja in Northern Spain!

Our first stop takes us to Finca de los Arandinos Bodega I Hotel. This hotel is a fun combination of contemporary and modern with an artsy vibe. The quirky panels open and unfold to create bathroom and shower spaces as well as clothing storage by the bed. This location ticked all of our boxes for the first segment of the trip. It was affordable at 430 CHF for two nights, including two breakfasts and two excellent dinners. There is a restaurant downstairs with excellent regional fare that was consistently delicious! The best part is that the hotel located in the heart of the La Rioja area with several vineyard options for you to visit for tastings.

Finca de los Arandinos Bodega Hotel - Ctra LR 137, Km 4,6, 26375 Entrena, La Rioja, Spain

Day 2

La Rioja, Spain

Irene mapped out a very fluid plan with two nights in three different locations, all offering a different feel and giving us new experiences in Spain. I was thrilled to let go of the planning duties and go with the flow! This trip is far more relaxing, out in the countryside, and incorporating one of our favorite activities… wine tasting!

Our first stop is at Viña Bujanda from Familia Martinez. This winery is 120 hectares in size with a production of 800,000 bottles using French Oak and American Oak Barrels. We had a wonderful tour, and tasting and of course added a few bottles for the collection! Their Verdejo was one of my favorite Verdejos that I’ve sampled and my favorite white wine from the trip!

After a quick snack in Logroño, we went back to the hotel, had a bottle of the Verdejo, and relaxed as the sunset. After a bit more relaxing we enjoyed one last dinner at the hotel. I was a massive fan of the fresh jamón ibérico and the entrecôte option. The steak in this area has quickly proved to be incredible. Proper jamón ibérico, or Iberian ham, is a type of ham from Spain and/or Portugal. Spain’s origin rules require jamón ibérico to be produced from black Iberian pigs, or cross-bred pigs so long as they are at least 50% ibérico. It’s not cheap, but it’s incredible.

Viña Bujanda - Crta. de Logroño s/n, Spain

Day 3

La Rioja to Valladolid

The negative aspect of drinking wine throughout the day is that the sugars make me wake up early in the morning! This was a good thing though because everyone was eager to start the trek to our next destination. We, of course, made time to have some fresh coffee, jamón, and eggs before our departure.

Just three hours west of our stay in La Rioja is Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine, a stunning 5-star hotel just east of Valladolid. Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine has been awarded the #1 hotel in Spain and Portugal and #2 in Europe by Condé Nast’s Readers Choice Awards and the Best Hotel in Spain on Trip Advisor in 2018.

In the 12th Century, this structure was the Abbey of Santa María de Retuerta. Today it’s owned by the global healthcare company, Novartis. This monastery was carefully remodeled into a plush hotel, equipped with a spa, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, fine-dining restaurants, and a church. We each stayed in a Double Classic Room with our own private garden. While it’s one of the smaller rooms, it’s our preferred room as it opens up to a garden and private seating facing the vineyards.

After a smooth check-in, we suited up and headed to the pool for some relaxation and poolside lunch. Relaxation and time with friends (and time with friends with wine) have quickly become the theme on this trip. The next few hours were dedicated to sitting by the pool in the hot sun while sipping on the vineyards Rosé. It was a solid plan.

While our attempts to get a table at the hotels Michelin Star restaurant, Refectorio, were unsuccessful, we were able to secure reservations at Vinoteca. This restaurant space is also located within the walls of Abadía Retuerta LeDomain and is more traditional. We were able to order several dishes, treat it in a family-style set up, and relax without the stuffy feel. I personally prefer this vibe.

In recent months I’ve grown tired of the Michelin rated establishments simply because it’s typically twice the price for the half of the food. While certain Michelin Star restaurants have stood out and been worth the splurge, I would admit that for me, only 10-20% actually deliver the jaw-dropping experience that justifies the expense. The rest all tend to blur together and have been somewhat forgettable.

Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine - 47340 - Sardón de Duero, Valladolid, Spain

Day 4

Valladolid, Spain

We’ve certainly stepped up a notch following our first night at Abadía Retuerta LeDomaine. After sitting down and ordering my super-fancy oat milk cappuccino, we were given the morning news update from the New York Times. I, however, have ‘opted out’ of news updates because I like to keep my mind in a happy place! The breakfast, however, was impressive. They prepared perfectly scrambled eggs with avocado and smoked salmon. The perfect start to the day, especially since we have fun plans in place.

When visiting, I highly encourage taking advantage of some of the experiences they offer. The bike tours were booked up, so we opted for the barrel tasting session which included a 4x4 guided tour. If you visit and don’t take the tour, you are truly missing out. Not only is the vineyard beautiful, but the experience of being scooped up in a Land Rover Defender was quite fun. We were shuttled to various places on the property to learn more about the winemaking process and the history of the land. This tour also featured a picnic along the way prior to arriving at the tasting experience. The wines on our tasting were lovely and featured several full-bodied aromatic red wines. It was a fun change of pace from the wines we had been drinking the in previous few days.

After the tour and tasting, our brides checked in for spa appointments while Nico and I just relaxed poolside. After the tasting and a bottle of wine on ice poolside, it was the perfect time for a nap. Who needs a spa when you can just snooze by a pool?

After a little bit of family FaceTime, some room service, and apero hour in the garden, we enjoyed another fantastic evening at Vinoteca.

Day 5

Valladolid to Tarragona

Following another delicious breakfast, we packed up the SUV and hit the road again. This segment of the loop is roughly 550 km and a 6 hr 15 min drive to Terra Dominicata, an incredible hotel in the mountainous city of Tarragona. As Nico aptly notes, “We really saved the crescendo for the final stay.”

We were welcomed to Terra Dominicata with a glass of Cava on the terrace, overlooking the rustic red hills of Tarragona. It’s a beautiful and serene setting with a pool below. After we checked in, Victor, TD’s General Manager, took us for a walk around the fantastic property. The rooms are outfitted with a beautiful bohemian vibe, and we immediately fell in love. I walked around, taking pictures while everyone else quickly made their way down to the pool to unwind from the drive. Around each corner was something just fun or beautiful, a photographers dream.

Like our previous stop, we get to leave the vehicle parked and just relax on-site and explore the properties offerings. We have really enjoyed the dining options up to this point, but it’s getting ready to elevate even more!

Alma Mater, the on-site restaurant, is the next star of this trip. Mattia Turchet, Alma Mater’s Head Chef, is an Italian native who started his career at Michelin restaurants in Italy. He later moved to Washington DC and is now plating up excellent food in inside Terra Dominicata. My order of the Risotto with Prawn and Roe Tartar and Monkfish Fishermen’s Soup with Cockles and Fennel Salad was incredible! The evening was especially memorable as Mattia helped us organize a surprise dessert for Irene’s birthday. As always, loving people and smiling faces make a difference in the experience.

Terra Dominicata - Carretera, T-702, Km 13, 43379 Escaladei, Tarragona, Spain

Day 6

Tarragona

Our sixth day was quite relaxing. The only intended plans for the day are to relax, read a bit, and sprinkle in some random fun here and there!

The first half of the day consisted on a late breakfast, a little pool time, and an eventual lunch at Terra Dominicata. We scheduled a cocktail mixology course for the evening so found time between for a few games and glasses of win on the terrace.

Every Saturday at 5:00 PM, Terra Dominicata offers a Cocktail Mixology course for 90-minutes. Marc, our expert mixologist, made the experience quite memorable! Not only were the recipes wonderful, he was so much fun! Education, drinks, and fun all wrapped into one was an excellent combination.

One last night at Alma Mater was a must and equally as amazing as the night prior! We ordered entrecôte, paella, and jamón and shared family style again!

Day 7

Tarragona to Barcelona

We were sad to leave but had a scheduled midday flight back to Basel. It’s just under two hours from Terre Dominicata to the Barcelona airport, making it so very tempting for random return visits! We savored one last breakfast and reluctantly packed our bags.

The drive down the T-702 to the C-242 is magnificent. When in the US we fell in love with the landscape of California, Arizona, and Colorado. This segment was reminiscent of that landscape wit the dry ground yet lush vines and trees. It’s a gorgeous drive and one we’ll most definitely be making again.