Exploring the Cinque Terre with a Local
If you’ve ever wondered if traveling through Italy can live up to stories and movies you’ve seen, if it’s as romantic and beautiful as you’ve heard, wonder no longer. I’m here to vehemently reaffirm that Italy is a dream destination and is a must visit in your lifetime.
I adore large cities such as Paris, Barcelona, and Florence due to the blend of so many cultures in a setting with centuries of history. Traveling into the countryside and villages outside of major cities, however, is where I tend to find a country’s culture and true identity. Since we were visiting two of Italy’s famous destinations, the Cinque Terre and Portofino, we decided to stay in Rapallo for its central location. This proved to be the perfect plan!
I tend to study for hours and hours before traveling and strategically map out plans. Maximizing time in locations like this is critical, yet it’s essential to explore in a relaxed and efficient manner. In my opinion, the best way to see the Cinque Terre for the first time is with a guide. My plans tend to be precise enough to do things on our own but this optimized timing, and it’s a must-do if you aren’t going to be able to visit the area multiple times. We booked a day with Cinque Terre Tours and were thrilled with the private day with Emilio! He kept track of train times and really allowed us to enjoy and explore with absolute efficiency while not having to worry about keeping track of it all. Plus, he knew exactly where to go for those desired photos!
If you don’t want to go with a guide, I would recommend spending a couple of days to see the Cinque Terre and do so by trail. It’s not a long hike but being able to drop into different villages with just a few miles between is fantastic. We plan to do that next year! The peak season is in summer so if you wish to avoid the crowd and shoulder-to-shoulder train rides, visit in Spring and Fall!
C/C Guide Recommendation: Cinque Terre Tours
Don’t miss the story of the Cinque Terre flood at the end!
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The Island of Capri ⋆ Staying at Capri Tiberio Palace ⋆ Positano and The Amalfi Coast ⋆ Staying at Casa Buonocore in Positano ⋆ A Visit to Pompeii, Mt. Vesuvius, and Naples ⋆ The Naples Pizza Battle ⋆ The Path of the Gods ⋆ Gastronomic Trekking on the Amalfi Coast ⋆ Portofino ⋆ The Italian Riviera ⋆ Parma ⋆ Bologna
Monterosso al Mare
We traveled by train for the day using the Cinque Terre special ticket that you can get at the Rapallo station. The first stop from the Rapallo station brings us to Monterosso al Mare. Monterosso is the home to the Monterosso Giant, the Church of San Giovanni Battista, Santuario di Nostra Signora di Soviore, and more adorable storefronts than you even have time to visit! It’s a beautiful village consisting of the old town and the new town, split by a single tunnel. This village has the largest beach so is typically overrun with tourists and locals alike in the summer months.
The vertical crops that you’ll see from the beachside are full of grapes, olives, and of course, lemons. The famous little lemon soaps are available at many of the stores. Days of the pirates invading Monterosso have passed but do be careful of the occasional pickpocket preying on tourists in peak seasons!
Vernazza
This village is one that you’ve likely seen all over Instagram and Pinterest as it’s a beautiful seaside fishing village with its port hidden inside from sea view. The layout turned out to be strategic in the past for defensive purposes so villagers would know in advance if pirates were going to attempt an attack. Vernazza’s name derives from the Latin adjective verna which means ‘local’ or ‘ours.’ The pride and love in this village are apparent, and we immediately fell in love!
Emilio took us on a beautiful vertical hike for fantastic views from above. The alleys and steps revealed so many different things along the way up. It took about 15-20 minutes in total and is worth the climb!
After taking several minutes to relax and enjoy the view, we made our way back down and into the heart of the village and down to the water for lunch. Grab a piada, a delicious flatbread full of fresh Italian meats and cheese, from Piadiamo Vernazza. If you prefer something other than regional street food, head to Belforte for a nice Ligurian meal!
On the way back to the station, Emilio pointed out several areas in the village where you could see water lines and evidence from the 2011 flood which I’ll explain in further detail below.
Corniglia
Full disclosure, we didn’t make it to Corniglia. It’s the only Cinque Terre village that is not actually on the water. It’s set up along the ridge overlooking the Ligurian Sea and is worth visiting if time permits. We didn’t have the time to visit but felt okay with the decision because we were able to see the other four at a good pace and were able to get to desired viewpoints for photos. As mentioned, we do plan to do a hike in the future and see all the villages on foot and spend a night in each village for the full experience.
Documents from 1276 note there was a castle here, but no remains have been found to date. Do check out the Church of S. Pietro and the Oratory of S. Caterina.
Manarola
The next stop takes us to the stunning village of Manarola. I think if you search #cinqueterre on Instagram, it’s likely a flood of images from Manarola. This is believed to be the oldest of the Cinque Terre.
You have to stop at the church, San Lorenzo, from the early 1300s. Things like this still amaze me because I’m a citizen of a country that was ‘discovered’ nearly 200 years after this church was constructed.
Grab some gelato from the Cinque Terre Gelateria Creperia and take a walk along the trail for your selfie or Instagramable shot!
Riomaggiore
I believe I saved the best for last on this one. Am I in a postcard, a movie, or a dream?
This is what I had seen in pictures and looked so forward to seeing and photographing. It didn’t disappoint! Riomaggiore is nestled on the water and is known for the wine produced by local vineyards. The village is lined with cafes, shops, and wine stores - pretty much my dream village.
I’ve already decided that when we do our village to village hike, we will be stopping here, grabbing a bottle of wine, a pizza from Kepris Pizzeria, and head right down to the water for a picnic with a view. This is one of the most beautiful places in the world and is full of charm.
Now… A bit of history…
The Devastating Flood of 2011
On October 25, 2011, a rare and intense rainstorm hit the Cinque Terre resulting in 22-inches of rain in under four hours. Due to the topography of these villages, this was far too much rain to be able to drain, resulting in massive destruction, primarily impacting Monterosso and Vernazza. Both villages were covered with 10 feet of mud and debris, and seven were killed.
The will and love of the village immediately kicked in, and so many helped in the restoration and unearthing process over many months. The damage to Vernazza totaled over 100 million euro! Assistance came in from all around in the form of volunteers, food, equipment, and clothing.
Emilio pointed out several areas in Monterosso and Vernazza where there was still evidence of a waterline and specific signs of damage. If you didn’t know the history, you likely would never notice or have a clue of this piece of the Cinque Terre’s history.
I'm a US expat, blogging photographer and world-traveler who may or may not like tequila a bit too much.