An Autumn Trip to Rome

Well, we finally did it. It only took a pandemic and an unforgettable trip to Venice to convince us that we should continue to visit the hottest tourist spots in Italy. What's more touristy than Venice? Well, Rome! Seven million people visited the Colosseum last year, making it the most visited attraction in all of Italy. So when the idea arose to see some of the worlds' oldest and most renowned relics while supporting our Italian friends and their economy, we didn't hesitate.

Rome leaves you in awe. To think of the countries that the Romans were able to conquer and all that they were able to build with their wealth is just incredible. We aren't the biggest history buffs, but getting a glimpse of what life was like and hearing famous Roman soldiers' stories leaves you with a sense of wonder. Sometimes, it also leaves you a bit sad and reflective. Let's be honest; the Roman Empire wasn't exactly known for being humble, simple, or kind. They were warriors who took what they wanted, audaciously celebrated their conquests, and thought of themselves as gods. When they built something, it was grand! And everything in Rome is indeed grand.

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Suppli at Supplizio

Suppli at Supplizio

The Colosseum

The Colosseum

The Gallery of Maps in Vatican City

The Gallery of Maps in Vatican City

An Autumn Trip to Rome

By Chanel LeitchPhotography Kevin Leitch

Despite their history, Romans today are so lovely, welcoming, and hospitable. And much of what we know of life today was influenced by the Roman Empire. The Romans left quite the legacy, and their democratic government is the basis for most of society today. Think about how we enjoy large sporting events today – cheering on competitors, eating vendor snacks, paying more for better seats, box seating. They did these things in the Colosseum. Even our everyday language still consists of Roman references and colloquialisms. You've heard them all before..." when in Rome, do as the Romans do"..." Rome wasn't built in a day"..." all roads lead to Rome." This empire left a lasting legacy and stamp on the world. The Vatican city still leaves an imprint on the lives of the world's devout Catholics.

You have to see Rome at least once in your life, but you definitely won't get to see all of Rome in one visit. So please keep in mind, this is one tiny sliver of what Rome has to offer. It's a great "first timer's" long weekend. We visited in October, a splendid and optimal time to visit. It's not too hot and the evenings are so enjoyable, which makes evening walks even better. The buildings become even more beautiful in the evening under the stars, so get out and see Rome's most incredible treasures at dusk. It's amazing!

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Pantheon

Father and Son at the Colosseum

Father and Son at the Colosseum

The Battle of Milvian Bridge  by Giulio Romano

The Battle of Milvian Bridge by Giulio Romano

A Bit About Roma

In every tour, you'll hear about the legend of how Rome was founded. You'll hear it so often you can almost quote the story yourself by the end of the trip. According to the legend, Romulus and Remus, twin sons of Mars, a god of war, were left to drown in a basket on the Tiber River. The basket was rescued by a she-wolf, which happens to also be a similar word in Italian for a "lady of the night". The two twins founded Rome, and then eventually Romulus killed his brother to become the first king and for which the city name was born.

The city is full of pagan temples, most of which have been converted to churches once Christianity became Rome's official religion. Of course, you have to go to the essential sites – the Colosseum, the Vatican City, and the Spanish Steps – at a minimum. If there are tons of tourists each year, there's usually a good reason why.

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Where to Stay

Crossing Condotti

Via Mario de' Fiori, 28, 00187 Roma RM, Italy | Website

Of course, there are many places to stay in Rome, and you could take advantage of a large hotel chain, but why would you when you can stay at Crossing Condotti, a modern and artistic boutique hotel owned by a local Roman family. They provide exceptional and personal hospitality for the 11 room hotel, which is perfectly located in Rome's heart, right next to the Spanish steps and amid great shopping. The owners have an incredible eye for design, and both the design and architecture for each room is unique. You can open the windows and listen to the sounds of Rome's bustling inner-city and also enjoy a peaceful night's sleep in the coziest of beds.

More to come on Crossing Condotti!

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The Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps

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What to See and Do

Visit Vatican City

C/C Recommendation: The Roman Guy

There's a reason it's considered a city-state of its own. This place is enormous! If you like art, history, architecture, and grandeur, you've come to the right place. Standing inside of St. Peter's Basilica is both memorable and somewhat over the top. We spent 6 hours on tour... that's right, 6 hours! And we didn't even see everything.

One of the coolest and most interesting facts is that 135 Swiss Guards guard the Pope and the Vatican. These guards must be Swiss Catholic males who are not married and between the ages of 19-30. Why the Swiss and not the Italian guard? According to history and our tour guide, the Papacy needed someone they could trust and trained very well. They've been guarding the Pope since 1506 and wear the most interesting uniforms, which take over 30 hours to sew. Each soldier has a customized uniform.

There is so much to see. Statues, the Sistine Chapel, the gardens... it's quite overwhelming and striking. By far, one of the must-see items is the Vatican's collection of cars. There's an entire garage and history of former vehicles made for the Pope. They range from handheld to horse-drawn to bulletproof vehicles. It's crazy to see it and reminds you how careful the Pope must be while in public.

The Colosseum

C/C Recommendation: Airbnb Experience

To think that the Romans built such a spectacular piece of architecture blows the mind. No trucks to haul material, no electrical tools, no digital computer design programs. How did they do it? Of course, we know it was built by slaves but still, how they possibly built these incredible works of art with marble and stone, some of the most massive materials on earth? The arches' design, beauty, and detail in even the smallest carvings and tiles are unbelievable.

We reserved an Airbnb experience with a private tour guide. This is definitely the way to go. We learned so much about the history and how the Romans lived. One of the most intriguing points was to hear about the Vestal Virgins. These were very young girls who were selected early in life and were turned into priestesses of the eternal flame – considered Vesta's sacred fire. It was no simple undertaking and required a 30-year chastity commitment. The Vestal Virgins were selected based on their beauty, and for a parent, this was a considerable privilege and honor. The virgins ensured the flame never went out and therefore were not allowed to go out of the temple of Vesta and were not allowed to marry. It came with high privilege and also high demands. They could own property, vote, and read/write. However, if they were caught or even perceived as having sex, they would be buried alive in the Campus Sceleratus in an underground chamber with enough food for three days for eternity. As a Vestal Virgin's blood could not be shed; the only option was being buried alive. Makes sense, right? Yeah sure. If they could survive, it would be considered a miracle, and thus the virgin declared innocent. If the Vestal Virgins survived their 30-year commitment, they were provided a wealthy sum and allowed to marry. However, most chose not to (insert sarcastic comment about being smart ladies).

Spanish Steps

Just a block from our hotel was the popular stairway, Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti, or Spanish Steps. This stairway connects Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità den Monti church! There are 135 steps in total and was built between 1723 and 1725.

Trevi Fountain

The largest Baroque fountain in Europe and is an incredibly popular site in Rome. Seeing it during COVID-19 was quite a different scene as there were a couple dozen people verses a couple hundred! An estimated 3,000 Euro per day at said to be tossed into Trevi!

Pantheon

The Pantheon was one of our favorites! Built initially in 27 B.C., this former Roman temple, now Catholic church, is made of concrete and is massive. The original building burned down, and the current temple was built on top of its ruins around 113 A.D. It's well preserved and includes the tombs of painter Raphael and the first King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel II, who unified Italy. What's really interesting as well is the top of the dome is open. Legend has it that it doesn't rain in the dome (though if you look at the drainage system in the floor, you'll notice that legend likely is false.

Get Lost

Much like Venice, Rome inspired me to walk around as much as possible and explore! It’s a massive city, so seeing in during one visit is not realistic. I got lost with my new friend Stray Idler in the center of the city! He strolled along with us sharing his beautiful city, and we had such a lovely time! If you haven’t checked out his site, it’s a favorite for mine! For a photographer, all of the charm of Rome will keep you quite busy!

Pasta with White Truffle at Zia

Pasta with White Truffle at Zia

Margherita Pizza at Retro Bottega

Margherita Pizza at Retro Bottega

Peach Pizza with Bone Marrow at Retro Bottega

Peach Pizza with Bone Marrow at Retro Bottega

Where To Eat and Drink

While there’s no shortage of amazing places to dine while in Rome, these are among our absolute favorites!

Zia

Via Goffredo Mameli, 45, 00153 Roma RM, Italy | Website

Zia features an innovative menu, delicious food, and an incredibly friendly staff. We immediately fell in love! Each small course left us craving more and more! Zia is located in the fun and eclectic Trastevere neighbourhood. This is a can’t miss restaurant that I think will easily rank among the city’s best!

Osteria Fernanda

Via Crescenzo del Monte, 18, 00153 Roma RM, Italy  | Website

Minimalism, fantastic food, and bookshelves with wine… this is our kind of place! We enjoyed a tasting menu with wine pairing, and every detail of the meal was incredible. Our menu was contemporary Italian with fresh seafood!

Supplizio

Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 143, 00186 Roma RM, Italy | Website

Chef Arcangelo Dandini has taken Rome's favorite snack food and elevated it to an even more delicious form! We dropped in for a few bites and some wine. It was everything I dreamed of! The deep-fried rice balls, especially the extra cheesy ones… so amazing!

Retro Bottega

Via d'Ascanio 26a, 00186 Rome RM, Italy | Website

Want to pick up fresh pasta for the home? Come here. Want to have wine, small bites, and/or pizza options? Come here and head to the 'back shop.' Want a full-on meal from some of the best chefs in Rome? Hit the main restaurant! The staff here is so lovely, a theme we found to be common in Roma! We stayed for prosecco, then some pizza and wine. If you want a real treat, try the peach pizza with bone marrow! It was a delicious combination we wouldn't have thought of!

Nannarella

Piazza di S. Calisto, 5, 00153 Roma RM, Italy | Website

The recipe at Nannarella is flawless. Great food, quick service, and low prices. Rome's classic recipes are found here, and it's excellent. If you can target the time, grab a reservation ahead of time! It's certainly not a secret. The Carbonara at Nannarella is perfection!

Seu Pizza Illuminati

Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 - 18, 00153 Roma RM, Italy | Website

More pizza? There's always room for more pizza, especially in Italy. Seu Pizza Illuminati isn't your average pizza restaurant. The innovation and creativity here have resulted in several awards, and the locals agree. The pizzas are delicious. The Fior di Cotto, Pescarita, and other unique creations are a must-try!

Pescarita Pizza at Seu Pizza Illuminati

Pescarita Pizza at Seu Pizza Illuminati

Suppli at Supplizio

Suppli at Supplizio

Supplizio

Supplizio

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Temple of Diana in Villa Borghese

Temple of Diana in Villa Borghese

Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti

Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti

The Streets of Rome

The Streets of Rome

Temple of Diana

Temple of Diana

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

Piazza di Siena

Piazza di Siena

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Temple of Asclepius

Temple of Asclepius

Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo

Spanish Steps

Spanish Steps

Local Cheese on Griddled Bread

Local Cheese on Griddled Bread

Fior di Cotto at Seu Pizza Illuminati

Fior di Cotto at Seu Pizza Illuminati

Fontana dei Fiumi in Piazza Navona

Fontana dei Fiumi in Piazza Navona

Palazzetto Zuccari

Palazzetto Zuccari

Sunset in Rome

Sunset in Rome

Trevi Fountain

Trevi Fountain

Autuman Guinea Fowl at Zia

Autuman Guinea Fowl at Zia

Sea Bass Meunière at Zia

Sea Bass Meunière at Zia

Zia Restaurant

Zia Restaurant

The Pasta Course at Zia

The Pasta Course at Zia

Obelisco Piazza San Pietro Città del Vaticano

Obelisco Piazza San Pietro Città del Vaticano

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Basilica di San Pietro

Basilica di San Pietro

Basilica di San Pietro Altar

Basilica di San Pietro Altar

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Prawn and Roe Primi, Osteria Fernanda

Prawn and Roe Primi, Osteria Fernanda

Chocolate 3-Ways, Osteria Fernanda

Chocolate 3-Ways, Osteria Fernanda

Osteria Fernanda

Osteria Fernanda

Tortellini, Osteria Fernanda

Tortellini, Osteria Fernanda

Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana

Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana

Arco di Tito

Arco di Tito

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Casa delle Vestali, Roman Forum

Casa delle Vestali, Roman Forum

Il Tempio dei Dioscuri, Roman Forum

Il Tempio dei Dioscuri, Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

Roman Forum

The Colosseum

The Colosseum

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The Underground, Colosseum, Rome

The Underground, Colosseum, Rome

Impact of COVID-19. No lines.

Impact of COVID-19. No lines.

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The Colosseum

The Colosseum

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Piazza Navona, Rome

Piazza Navona, Rome

Tonnarello Carbonara at Nannarella

Tonnarello Carbonara at Nannarella

Piazza Navona, Rome

Piazza Navona, Rome

Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II

Ponte Vittorio Emanuele II

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

Pantheon, Rome

I'm a US expat, blogging photographer and world-traveler who may or may not like tequila a bit too much.