Every. Single. Time. That's how often we leave Italy discussing our future retirement plans. It doesn't matter which region or city. We've visited the blue waters along the coast, rolling green hills of Tuscany, snow-covered mountains of Tirol, sparkling lakes at Como, and many lovely and bustling cities. Every single time, we always come home looking at real estate and thinking of what could be our forever home.

We didn't expect to feel that way about Venice. In fact, we had intentionally avoided it. Venice is known to be too hot, too crowded, and too overrun with tourists. But we decided to take advantage of the opportunity to explore this well-known island during the COVID lull. What's funny is we promised ourselves we would not visit Italy this year. There's so much of the world to see, and we had been visiting our favorite country far too often. The global pandemic had other plans for us, so why not Venice? The moment we entered the Venetian Lagoon, after leaving the airport on a taxi boat, we knew we were about to have the experience of a lifetime.

What is it about the colors of Italy? The burnt oranges, mustard yellows…even the dirty and old is incredibly beautiful. And the Italian people - they are so happy. Even when they stand in the middle of the street yelling at one another in a passionate argument, there's just something so charming about it. So being in Italy for the first time immediately following the COVID lockdown was special. I mean really special. I still get goosebumps thinking of Northern Italy during the most intense times of the first COVID wave, which impacted them so profoundly. To see our beloved neighbors struck down so quickly and so terribly by the disease was painful to watch. Yet even then, the Italian heart and genuine love of fellow mankind always shone through. Even if it means singing for neighbors or dancing with a loved one while being confined to a small balcony.

Italy is love. Venice is love on another level.

Related Links

An Autumn Trip to Rome ⋆ Six Senses Douro Valley, A Portuguese Gem ⋆ Exploring Portugal’s Douro Valley ⋆ A Visit to Porto During COVID-19 ⋆ Getting Sideways in España ⋆ Central Tuscany: A Wine Lover's Guide ⋆ A Road Trip to Andorra ⋆ The Island of Capri ⋆ Positano and the Amalfi Coast ⋆ A Visit to Pompeii, Mt. Vesuvius, and Naples

A Perfect Weekend in Venice

By Chanel Leitch ⋆ Photography Kevin Leitch

From the moment we entered the winding canal of Venice, we had to pinch ourselves. Was this place for real? Do people actually live in this fairytale land where people take a boat to dinner or work (yes, actually 45,000 people do)? We were amazed, and we shouldn't have been surprised. We are water lovers, after all. We should have known we'd love it, but we simply didn't expect it to be so stunningly beautiful, clean, and surrounded by crystal clear water.

Taking a boat from the airport, you quickly see how removed from the mainland truly is. It's not a short ride (90min), especially if you take the cheaper version – a ferry. For a moment, it felt like we were in the south of the U.S. in marshland. If you've read our Folly Beach post, you know how special places like this are to us. So we were immediately intrigued to see what was in store. We weren't disappointed. Where else can you go where the only way to get around is on foot or by boat? Where else do people pray for it to rain (just a little but not too much) so they can dance in front of a flooded Saint Mark's Basilica? Where else does romance ooze around every corner, every boat turn? Yes, the Venetians exaggerate and play on this a bit, but it's their livelihood. So to see it in a time where they desperately need tourists, we were honored to be there to support them and see this beloved city through the eyes of local Venetians.

A Bit About Venice

Venice was first populated by people fleeing from the barbarians who had invaded the Roman Empire around 450 A.D. It became a republic because all those who fled were on the same social and economic status, in terms of wealth. Venice quickly grew in wealth because of the salt trade. They would go to the shallow water levels to collect salt and then allow the water to evaporate. At the time, salt was the most precious and valuable product globally as there was no refrigeration to preserve food. Venetian soldiers were paid in salt as they could use salt as currency for trading. This use of salt is where the word "salary" comes from,”

Unlike many other counties at the time, Venetians afforded women many rights, like the ability to inherit wealth and spend it as they pleased, making it a very progressive society. Women also were afforded the right to read and write. The first woman to ever graduate college was Venetian; I knew I liked this place.

Upon the discovery of the Americas, trade began to suffer, and Venice experienced economic challenges. It had finally broken free from Austria, but due to declining wealth, it couldn't sustain itself as a republic and decided to join Italy, which had just united five years earlier in 1861. Even though Venice has been a part of Italy for more than two centuries, it is still very rich in its own culture and heritage, as seen by the annual carnival, Venetian language, and beauty.

What to See and Do

There's so much to do in Venice. If you can, dedicate 3-4 days, which is ideal! Don't rush it. Instead, slow down and enjoy this magnificent city of canals and explore the hidden, narrow alleys containing artisan shops and local restaurants! Besides visiting well-known tourist spots, we also bought an authentic handmade Italian mask, had a romantic photoshoot, ate fantastic fish, and of course, enjoyed decadent gelato.

San Marco Square

Located in the heart of Venice by the water, you'll find the main Piazza, San Marco Square. Here you'll discover Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Basilica. Usually, this area is quite crowded with people, vendors, and pigeons. Lucky for us, it was a little quieter. There are shops, cafes, and galleries in this area. It's the perfect place to sit down, and people watch while enjoying Venice's traditional drink, the Aperol Spritz.

Visit Murano and Burano

First-timers should not confine themselves to the main center of Venice! There are so many islands, and they are accessible via public transit or private boat. Visit surrounding islands such as Murano (known for artisan glass blowing) and Burano (one of the world's most colorful towns). We booked a tour on TripAdvisor that provided a private boat tour and glass blowing tour all in one. It was well worth the money!

Relax on a Gondola Ride

If you visit Venice and don't have at least one gondola ride, have you truly experienced Venice? I would recommend a 30-minute ride in your favorite area as multiple rides can get quite expensive. Yet, seeing Venice from the canals is so romantic, and it gives you a completely different perspective of this beautiful city.

Get Lost

Walking through the alleys in Venice is one of the most pleasant things you can do! It seems there is a shop, a cafe, or a square hidden around every few turns. If you're photographing the city or diving in and out of shops, time can quickly escape you! You can soon find yourself far from your lodging point, but no worries as the waterbuses are easy and reliable!

Hire a Photographer

This one is new for us, but we found it to be such a fun experience! We often don't get any fun shots of us traveling since we're usually behind the camera. So this time, we decided to meet up with Alina Indi, a local photographer in Venice. Be sure to take advantage of this romantic city for an hour or two. It's more than worth it to capture the memories! - Airbnb

Where To Eat and Drink

While there’s no shortage of amazing places to dine while in Venice, these are among our absolute favorites!

Bar All’Arco

Calle Arco, 436, 30125 Venezia | Website

Simplicity, deliciousness, and authenticity! This popular Venetian staple will be part of every visit we make to the city. It's located quite central to the Rialto market and is just as popular with the locals as with tourists! We kept things simple and had a glass of wine and various Cicchetti, the small bites that are traditional fare in Venice. If they have miniature sandwiches when you visit, give them a try too! They are quite popular.

Local

Salizzada dei Greci, 3303, 30122 Venezia  | Website

From the smiling faces, stylish uniforms, and chic vibe, we were immediately excited upon arrival! This hip spot combines the simplicity of Japanese style and modernism with Italian delicacies. When you walk in, you get the immediate sense that you are in for a treat! Out of hunger and curiosity, we opted for the 12 small-course tastings with wine pairing. This meal was our first wine accompaniment that included a paired wine and sake for each course. Our sake knowledge and experience is quite limited, but this pairing featured the best sake we've sampled. Every course was unique, fresh, and innovative! Head chef Matteo Tagliapietra's impressive resume featuring Noma and Nobu, and now Local, one of Venice's best restaurants.

Al Covo

Campiello de la Pescaria, 3698, 30122 Venezia | Website

Just a short walk from San Marco is another local favorite and now one of ours too! This restaurant immediately piqued our interest once we learned the owners are a married Venetian and Texan couple. We chatted with Cezere and Diane during our meal, and so enjoyed the conversations. Restaurants like this make you feel like you are local and at home. It's wonderful! Between the spider crab, fresh fish, fritto misto, and the fresh local sole, everything offered was incredible and fresh!

Vini Da Arturo

S. Marco, 3656, 30173 Venezia | TripAdvisor

One rarely thinks of a pork chop when dreaming of Venice, but since our visit, we certainly have. Vini Da Arturo is a staple in the city and has been since 1968. This restaurant gives you a sense that you are family and are about to enjoy one of grandma's specialties (or in this case, grandpa's)! Ernesto and Hani make it such a welcoming experience! Order the eggplant appetizer and the pork chop entree! Yes, several of the other menu items look amazing but trust us, the pork chop is a must. We shared both dishes, and it was plenty of food! We would never have thought to baste a pan-fried pork chop with simple white vinegar, but it was such a great combination and the most flavorful pork chop we've ever eaten. We are still dreaming about it today!